January 29, 2010
(Martinique/Guadeloupe)- Martinique and Guadeloupe are two of the few countries in the world where Carnival does not end on or before the Christian Ash Wednesday begins (February 17, 2010). Actually, it sometimes ends at the end of Ash Wednesday or, in some cases in the wee hours of the morning after Ash Wednesday. Carnival officially begins the Saturday that precedes Ash Wednesday, but in the French Caribbean islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe, the day after New Year's Day, people begin to unofficially start the celebrations. During this unofficial time, the carnival associations rehearse in the street; people spend their times making beautiful floats for the parades and getting themselves mentally, psychologically and physically prepared. The official start of Fat Saturday (Samedi Gras) is the time that people go to parties to dance throughout the night.
XXXKing Vaval, a giant mannequin, is the king of Carnival and he is ostensibly featured along with the beautiful floats and revelers on Fat Sunday (Dimanche Gras). This is the time when all barriers of race, color, or creed are broken down and people jump and dance to enjoy themselves to the fullest. This finishes late in the evening, and people return home to rest a few hours before partying the night away. There are parties every night during the official celebrations.
XXXFat Monday (Lundi Gras) is the day of the red devils. It is the day when everyone dresses in red. Today people continue to dress in red, decorated with shimmering reflective silver and glitter. These costumes are a thing of beauty as the costume designers seemingly let their imaginations flow to come up with beautiful works of art. During Carnival, many men parade in drag queen costume, sometimes with very elaborate and provocative outfits. It must also be mentioned that traditionally, some women dressed as men for burlesque weddings on Monday. The high presence of men in drag is an obvious reference to the central role of women in the French Caribbean islands' society and family structures.
XXXAsh Wednesday is the day when everyone dresses in black and white for the funeral of king Vaval to mark the end of the Carnival. Festivities go on throughout the day until seven o'clock in the evening. King Vaval is then burnt to mark the end of the Carnival season. Nevertheless, parties continue until midnight with great revelry. Some party people even continue partying until just before daybreak as they are some who say "dis party can't done 'til morning come."
XXXDuring the four-day holiday of Carnival festivities, activity on the island nearly comes to a standstill. Preparations begin as early as the first week of January with the election of the Carnival Queens, and last until the day before Fat Sunday (Dimanche gras). The parades and parties start on Big Sunday and finish on Ash Wednesday when the carnival effigy, the "Vaval" King, is burned.
XXXIt’s easy for tourists to take in all the fun of Carnival. They can safely join the parade or watch from bleachers set up on the sidewalks or from balconies overlooking the streets and squares. The focal point for the final celebration is King Carnival, a giant colorful effigy known as Vaval, along with his alter ego, Bwa-Bwa (French: Bois Bois), who towers over the floats and dancing procession. By now, humorous death notices of King Carnival have been announced in local media. Festivities continue as his funeral pyre is built. Dusk falls, then flames light up the night sky. As Vaval’s effigy is consumed by the fire, dancing reaches its apogee. Only when the flames die down does a calm settle over the crowd. With the burial of Vaval, they chant "Vaval, pas quitte nous", which is Creole for "Carnival don’t leave us."
XXXThen it is over. At least for the time being. The mischief is revived three weeks later – with a 24-hour reprise of Carnival called Mi-Carême, or mid-Lent. There is no Vaval, but there are costumes and parades again, endless marching bands, plus much revelry and rum - all in the spirit of Carnival, Caribbean-style. In towns and villages throughout the islands, there is dancing and dining galore. The favored food everywhere in Martinique is "matoutou" ("matété" in Guadeloupe) or curried crab, a dish that is also popular just after Lent at Easter Monday beach picnics. (from martinique.org and caribbeanchoice.com)
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